Complications
Intermediate level of horological functions
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The Patek Philippe 5172G Salmon dial – Expression of tradition or…
Hi everyone, Manual-wind chronographs are a field on their own at Patek and not only for them but among traditional established brands, over many decades. Today, I would like to have a view on the second version of the 5172 family: the Patek Philippe 5172G Chronograph with Salmon dial. It has been released last year and remains their first Salmon chronograph in the regular catalogue. Indeed, aside of maybe quasi-unique pieces made on order for older loyal customers, the previous Salmon dial chronograph was a 5070G-014 limited edition (5 pieces) released for the London exhibition back in 2015. In the contemporary and very attractive blue dial 5172G-01 (2019), I remember…
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The Patek Philippe 5712/1R Nautilus – Thrill in rose gold
Hello everyone, I’m a huge fan of the Nautilus line-up, the thinner models in particular, which I discovered more than 10 years ago, much before last years’ market strong blossoming. I find it’s a watch according casualness and elegance wonderfully. Excitingly (and finally I would say), we’ve just been presented a new 5712: the Patek Philippe 5712/1R Nautilus (the “1R” meaning rose gold metallic bracelet). While this meant on paper a very finely crafted model, thin hence immensely delicate, it doesn’t give the slightest idea of how tremendous the watch looks in the metal. This is mainly due to the presence of rose gold of course and I’ll try to…
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The Patek Philippe 5524R Calatrava Pilot Travel Time – A strong presence for a casual wear
Hi everyone, It’s been a long time since I wanted to review this particular family. The Patek Philippe 5524R Calatrava Pilot Travel Time that was released in 2018 was originaly launched in 2015 in a white gold version. Back then, the least we can say is that this model had created a significant buzz when it was presented at Baselworld. Nowadays, it has attracted more and more fans. As with the Nautilus (or the 5070 in a lesser extent), it puzzled some older watch enthusiasts while excited an array of older or potential new owners already enjoying a casual yet elegant lifestyle. This trend appeared quite strongly in the 2000’s…
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The Patek Philippe 5235R Annual Calendar – The Regulate
Hello everyone, Unveiled first in white gold in 2011, the Patek Philippe 5235G Annual Calendar “Regulator” was a very surprising introduction in the brand’s collection. It was unique regarding their wristwatch history, presenting a rare display format and, even more interestingly, a new brilliant caliber. Indeed, there are sometimes interesting movement evolutions but, this time, we didn’t expect to find the brand new 31-260 minirotor automatic caliber, developped in house with the help of their Advanced Research program, particularly focusing on accuracy. Hence, 7 years later, the white gold version was discontinued in 2019 to hand over to a second version presented in rose gold: the Patek Philippe 5235R “Regulator”…
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The Patek Philippe 5326G Annual Calendar Travel time – Get ready to wear it everyday
Hi everyone, There are watches that aren’t the most expensive nor complicated but that get the most wrist time. I’m sure many can recognize their own experience in that statement. It is the kind of watches you feel comfortable with, in every meaning of the word. It is seemless on the wrist, you aren’t (too) afraid of scratching it, you find it appealing aesthetically, it possesses one or two functions that are practical to you, a color or a shape that you’ve been quickly finding yourself very in line with, etc… I have that with an old Speedy of mine. Presented during the last Watches & Wonders 2022 fair, the…
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The Patek Philippe 5230R World Time – Cherishing the art of Universal Timers
Hello everyone, A few years ago, the Patek Philippe 5230 World Time was launched in two versions, rose and white gold, with updated time zones, together with the 5930G World Time Chronograph. It was a very exciting event considering this complication is a famous icon not only in the brand’s history but also within the watchmaking world. It is a must-have in a collection, not only for real travellers but also for those whose imagination brings them in a journey through the places marked on the dial. With the Perpetual Calendar and Minute-repeaters, it is their third “signature” complication. Indeed, when involved in a World Timers discussion, Patek Philippe automatically…
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The Patek Philippe 5930G World Time Chronograph – A stunning 1950’s proportions reminiscence
Hi everyone, Back in 2016, the new model Patek Philippe 5930G World Time Chronograph was launched together with the World Time only 5230 (the 5130’s successor). It was taking after the older and unique-made 1415-1 piece ordered in 1940 for the Doctor P. Schmidt (picture below – not the doctor, the watch). It was the first and only Patek with the World Time and Chronograph complications assembled together. The watch is now visible at the Patek Philippe Museum and remains quite famous from many catalogue covers and Patek Philippe’s documentations. Surprisingly, this one-shot wasn’t followed by a dedicated line-up. Indeed, the 1940-1970’s era was a time when complicated watches weren’t…
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The Patek Philippe 5172G Chronograph – Another delighting alliance of traditional and casual
Hello everyone, Knowing what Patek Philippe has offered in the world of traditional manual-wind chronographs from the early years of the Stern era, the launch of a new line is always a major event. The Patek Philippe 5172G Chronograph was presented in 2019 after we’ve been traveling through all the stages of the 5170 family from 2010 until 2018. After the last 5170P, which already had a kind of “cool attitude”, we definitely can say with this new 5172G that the brand keeps on exploring new fields. Next to the more traditional line-ups, they find inspiration partly from the past and partly from our modern times. It’s even quite audacious…
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The Patek Philippe 5212A Calatrava Weekly Calendar – An everyday-life keeper
Hi everyone, In 2019, we had a very nice surprise with the launch of a new model in many ways: the Patek Philippe 5212A Calatrava Weekly Calendar. This elegant and casual reference receives the brand new 26-330 caliber with a first-time weekly calendar complication. Indeed, while keeping the brand’s style evolving at a “traditional” pace, the company has presented a model with a casual atmosphere. It is more modern and practical as it displays the week number for its owner. At every level, the watch is balanced, through tradition and modernity, whether on the dial side or regarding the movement. Meanwhile, it doesn’t fall in the “always bigger” trend. I…
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The Patek Philippe 5650G Aquanaut Travel Time “Advanced Research” – A technical landmark
Hello everyone, 2017 was the Aquanaut’s 20th anniversary. The brand was willing to mark the event with the launch of two new references, the 5650G Aquanaut Travel Time “Patek Philippe Advanced Research” together with the Patek Philippe 5168G Aquanaut (with a dedicated article in the future). Some context As a reminder, in the early 2000s, Patek Philippe decided to create the new “Advanced Research” innovation program which would aim at preparing the future in developing new technologies and working on new materials. Since long ago, Patek Philippe, apart from its wide historical legacy, always considered they shouldn’t ignore progress and new possibilities. Some of the main issues watchmakers are facing…
